G’day, Nikolai here from The Lawn Firm. Laying new turf is exciting, but the first 6–8 weeks decide whether you end up with a dense, easy lawn or a patchy headache.

Most online guides are general for “Australian lawns”. This one is specific to Canberra and the ACT – clay soils, sharp seasons, including warm and cool-season grass types.

Below is the same step-by-step plan we use on new lawns across Canberra.

Before the turf goes down: get the base right

You might already have turf installed, but if you’re still in planning, this is the foundation I aim for:

Old grass and weeds removed (not just scalped)
Soil loosened 100–150 mm so roots can drive down (or replaced where necessary)
Install irrigation system - minimum 100 mm below the surface
Obvious low spots filled to avoid puddles
Soil raked level with a fine, even surface

A flat, firm-but-not-hard surface lets turf sit tight against the soil, which is vital for early root contact.

If you’re unsure about the base, that’s where our renovation and prep work come in.

Day 0: Laying day checklist

Once the turf arrives, the clock starts.

1. Lay and press

Lay slabs in a brick pattern, staggering joins
Push edges together with no gaps
Use a roller or firm foot pressure to press slabs into the soil so there are no air pockets

2. First watering

My approach on laying day:

Give the new turf a thorough soak straight away, using a sprinkler
Aim to wet the soil under the turf, not just the leaves
Stop before you see pooling or runoff

The slabs should feel heavy and damp through, and the soil underneath should be moist.

Week 1–2: Keep it constantly moist, not soggy

This is the critical rooting phase. The turf is alive, but roots are shallow.

Watering

Most national guides suggest watering at least once daily for the first 10–14 days for new turf.

In Canberra, I adapt that to:

Daily watering in the morning
Use a pre-installed irrigation system (which is our recommendation), or a mobile sprinkler for short, targeted top-ups during the day if edges start to dry
In hot, dry or windy weather, a second light soak in late afternoon may be needed

Key goal: the soil under the turf should stay consistently damp, never bone dry and never swampy.

Foot traffic

For these first two weeks:

Keep traffic off as much as possible
No pets, no kids’ games, no wheelbarrows on the new turf

Mowing

Do not mow yet.
Wait until you feel resistance when you try to lift a corner, and the grass has reached 5–6 cm.

Week 3–4: First mowing and watering changes

By now, the roots should be starting to grab.

Tug test and first mow

Check a few spots:

Gently lift a corner of the turf
If it holds firmly, the roots have started to knit in

For the first mow:

Make sure the soil is firm and not waterlogged
Set the mower high – just take the tips off
Use sharp blades so you cut, not tear

If the mower leaves ruts or lifts turf, stop and wait another week.

Adjust watering

Once roots have started to establish:

Shift from light, frequent surface watering
Move towards slightly deeper, less frequent watering
For most Canberra conditions in this stage, that means every 1–2 days, depending on weather and soil

You are training roots to chase water down, not sit at the surface.

Fertilising (light and careful)

We suggest a light feed with a low nitrogen fertiliser in week 3:

If colour is pale and growth has started, a light, balanced feed can help
Avoid heavy nitrogen “push” at this stage, especially in heat

Week 5–8: Transition to a normal program

Your lawn should now be moving from “fragile” to “settling in”.

Watering schedule

In this phase, I aim to move clients towards a normal deep-watering pattern:

Deep soak 1–2 times per week in the growing seasons, rather than daily splashes
Always water early morning where possible
Use a wetting agent if you see water beading or running off certain patches (hydrophobic soil is common here)

Mowing pattern

From the first cut onwards:

Never remove more than one-third of the leaf at a time
Maintain a steady height suited to your turf type (e.g. Canberra blend higher, Couch lower)
Keep blades sharp and avoid mowing when the soil is still very soft

Regular, gentle mowing in different directions encourages lateral growth and thickens the sward.

Seasonal tweaks for new turf in Canberra

New turf laid in spring

Ideal window: soil is warming, days are longer
Growth is strong, so turf takes root quickly
Watch for early weeds; remove by hand and avoid herbicides until the lawn is well established

New turf laid in summer

Heat and dry winds are the main threat
Daily watering in the early morning, with extra light top-ups on extreme days
Wetting agent and shaded play areas help reduce stress

New turf laid in autumn

One of my favourite windows in Canberra
Be careful with warm-season grasses as they're heading into dormancy
Cooler days and more stable moisture make establishment smoother
Aim to get strong root growth in before winter slows everything down

New turf laid in winter

Growth is slower, avoid laying warm-season grasses during this time (they are currently dormant)
Watering demand is lower, but do not let it dry out
Be patient: you may not see strong top growth until spring, but roots will still slowly develop

Weed, pest, and disease checks in new turf

Weeds

Expect a few weed seeds from the soil to appear
In the first 6–8 weeks, hand remove rather than reach for herbicides; most national guides echo this.

Pests

Watch for birds digging, spongy patches, or sudden die-off – signs of grubs or black beetle
If you see anything odd, I’d rather assess before any treatment goes down

Disease

Avoid night watering and overwatering – this keeps leaves wet and encourages disease
If you see brown circles, orange dust, or coin-sized spots, get me out to check on it

Common mistakes we fix on new Canberra lawns

I see the same patterns again and again:

Mowing too early – roots tear, slabs shift, and recovery slows
Mowing too low – Canberra blend
Watering little and often for months – roots stay shallow and the lawn fails in heat
Ignoring the edges – they dry out first and start browning early
Heavy fertiliser to quickly – scorched patches and uneven growth
High traffic in the first month – compression, sunken areas and wear before the roots are ready

Avoid those, and you’re well ahead of most DIY attempts.